Destination
London, England
Sleep
Sonder – St. John’s Garden, Clerkenwell
Eat
Oriole | The Delaunay Counter
Shop
Foyle’s | Smythson | Skoob
See
The Courtauld Gallery
Three days anywhere is a wonderful excursion, a fun adventure, but it’s not enough to truly get to know the place. I tell you that as a preface to saying that this isn’t my usual city guide so much as some quick notes on places I visited in London late last year and loved. London is vast. I’ve visited four times but still can’t claim to know it as a place, though I think I experienced it more fully on my recent trip than I have in the past. I still have a lot to learn. But until I can, this is a list of a few spots that I’ll gladly return to next time I’m in town.
Sleep
Sonder – St. John’s Garden, Clerkenwell – 120 St. John Street
I confess: I booked with Sonder after years of loyalty to Airbnb largely based on price. My initial experience was – a bit of a disaster. Without going into detail, I’ll say that where I wound up staying was not where I originally planned to be, but it worked out in the best possible way. The location of my Sonder, within a five-minute walk of Farringdon station, could not have been more convenient. I’d gladly return based on location alone, but confess that I also loved having a kitchenette in my tiny room for making early morning tea and heating late night treats.
Eat
While the British aren’t known for their cuisine, the London food scene is vastly more glamorous than what I’m used to at home; the options are wildly varied and cater to every imaginable taste. But I’m still me, so mostly, I ate cakes and drank wine. I really can’t think of a better vacation diet than that.
Oriole – Smithfield Market
We nearly missed our reservation at Oriole but managed to snag a last minute cab to make it. What a treat. The entrance to the prohibition-inspired speakeasy is nondescript to say the least, but a trip down the steps leads to a world of wonder and the home of some of the most lush cocktails I’ve ever sipped. The atmosphere is dimly lit and jazzy, perfect for swapping old stories while you sip.
The Delaunay Counter – 55 Aldwych
They had me at black forest cake. A staple of early nineties dessert menus in North America that was my childhood favourite but is no longer on trend, this chocolate and cherry treat can be hard to find – except, of course, in the region from which it hails, and cafes inspired by it, like The Delaunay Counter. The vibe here is decidedly central European. When you step inside, you leave the chaos of London behind for a little while. It’s tranquil, and the cakes are exactly what my childhood dreams were made of.
Shop
Of course London is a fashion capital. But I spent a lot more of my time in London in bookstores than in clothing stores and honestly, I had no complaints. The city is a literary capital with good reason. As both a writer and an avid reader who tends to get distracted by fashion, I indulged a different part of myself on this trip which was really quite lovely.
Foyle’s – 107 Charing Cross Road
Foyle’s is less a bookstore, and more a book emporium. The place is immense. And absolutely filled with books on every subject imaginable, in a dazzling array of languages. I left with an armful, because who could resist that kind of selection? And I’d barely scratched the surface of what was on offer, honestly. This is a true paradise for a bibliophile, and one where I’d happily waste many afternoons just browsing for the pleasure of it.
Smythson – Opera Gallery, 131-132 New Bond Street
I’m a devotee of the Moleskine notebook, and have been for years. But before I discovered the superiority of Moleskine, I knew about the luxury of Smythson, the most elegant, indulgent notebooks available. My first, a tiny one, was a generous birthday gift from Ian many years ago now, but it was so special I could never bring myself to use it. On the trip, I finally treat myself to another that I could actually write in. And I admit: it doesn’t replace my beloved Moleskine. But it is the quintessential London notebook, and it represents another little writer dream come true for me. If you love a good notebook, this is your shop.
Skoob – 66 The Brunswick Off
The smell of old books is just the smell of decay, really, but it’s romantic decay, the loveliest kind that I can imagine. I love old books. And old books are Scoot’s stock and trade. I could go into lengthy detail about why you should visit this used book shop in particular, but really, if you love old books, you’ll love this place. That’s all you need to know.
See
There’s so much to see in London. I have absolutely nothing original (or even anything particularly elegant) to add to the list of must-see attractions. The simple reality is, mostly, you can’t go wrong with whatever you choose to visit – and the world won’t end if you skip it all in favour of simply wandering the city instead.
The Courtauld Gallery – Somerset House
I’ve already told you why I love this gallery. The Impressionists! The location! …but in case you missed it, you may want to click through.
