Destination
Athens, Greece
Sleep
Happy Penthouse with Private Veranda via Airbnb
Eat
Cherchez la Femme | Mr. Green Kebab | Ciel
Shop
Cava Nektar | Le Livre Ouvert | Bonum Terra
See
Roman Forum | The National Historical Museum | The Benaki Museum
Athens is the city I never knew I always wanted to visit. I’ve written about my love for the Greek capital time and again, but in case you’re new here, I’ll repeat myself again: Athens is a marvel that must be experienced to be believed. There is no book or film that can prepare you for the wondrous, sometimes dizzying reality of the metropolis, especially in the heat of summer. The city is alive, vital, buzzing with an energy that doesn’t exist elsewhere. It’s nothing like you’re expecting it to be and everything you dream it might be all at once, and that quality of improbability is just one of many, many qualities that make it so special.
If you’re making travel plans, Athens should be high on your “must visit” list. But if you’re still not sure, I’ll spend the next several paragraphs telling you more about exactly why that is…
Sleep
Happy Penthouse with Private Veranda via Airbnb
I know that opinions on Airbnb, particularly in North America, where prices often outpace those of hotels, are increasingly mixed. But personally, we’ve had nothing but great experiences using the site (which we first booked with in 2014. Our stay in Athens this year was probably our best yet. The apartment we rented was pure perfection. Picture it: impeccably decorated in mid-century modern style, with two air conditioned bedrooms, a full kitchen and bath, plus two balconies, one of which was almost as big as the apartment itself… all located right between two metro stations that allowed us to get anywhere in the city in almost less time than if we’d stayed nearer and walked.
I mention the metro because the area isn’t exactly central for tourists. But the proximity to those two subway stops was a game-changer. For me, it made this apartment much more convenient than ones in more traditionally tourist-friendly neighbourhoods like Kolonaki, Koukaki and Plaka. The neighbourhood is calm, safe, offers everything you need and if you can manage to book this specific apartment, you will not be disappointed.
Eat
If pressed, I would probably claim sushi as my favourite food – some Vancouver girl habits die hard. But I love sushi because I can easily get great sushi in Canada. Greek food is wonderful everywhere, but it’s best in Greece, where the ingredients are incredibly fresh and the focus is, most often, on simplicity with a touch of innovation.
We go back to the same restaurants over and over again, because we love them. To Lokali and Ergon House remain firm favourites. (We visited both more than once on this trip.) Couleur Locale, too. But we discovered a few new-to-us places that are very much worth the visit.
Cherchez la Femme – Mitropoleos 46
It’s rare that I eat dessert at all. And rarer still that I order it in restaurant. But I’m pretty sure that by the end of this trip, I’d sampled the entire dessert menu at Cherchez la Femme. The desserts are just that good, and alone make this central spot worthy of a recommendation. The savoury dishes are excellent, too, and service is friendly. Sitting outside on the patio for a sunset dinner is just about the loveliest way to spend an evening, for my money.
Mr. Green Kebab – Ioulianou 81
This restaurant is a bit of a dark horse, but wound up being a place we went back to more than once. I asked Ian to pick up rice one evening, too lazy to cook any myself. (Although we do cook a lot in Athens, some things just feel like too much work on vacation. Making rice is one of them.) He stopped in here, happened to notice some other interesting menu items and the rest, as they say, is history. Mr. Green Kebab is by no means fancy. But it is budget friendly and their haricots, or Greek baked beans, are to die for… possibly my favourite dish that I ate on the whole trip (which is saying something.)
Ciel – Mitropoleos 2
Visit Ciel for the view, but stay for the salads. The spot is a bit of a novelty, and initially, we thought most of the appeal would be in the Acropolis views from the sixth floor rooftop location. And they are special. But we wound up being impressed by the quality of the food, too. It’s generally a busy spot, but you can get a table, don’t hesitate to visit.
Shop
I’m always ambitious in my holiday shopping plans, but rarely manage to execute on them. And in Athens, I find that I often don’t shop at all – there are just too many other ways to spend time. (I know, I know, but it’s true.) That isn’t to say we came home empty-handed. There are definitely a lot of shops worth visiting in the city, and most of them are not on this list, but it does include a few that I really like and revisit often. Note: These definitely are not fashion-related recommendations. After three visits to Athens, I’ve still barely begun to explore the Greek fashion scene… maybe next time.
Cava Nektar – Ermou 121
If you love a beautiful shop, Cava Nektar is a must-visit. Part wine store, part luxe grocery store, part cafe, the space is beautiful – and the selection of local, as well as international, wines and spirits is exceptional.
Le Livre Ouvert – Solonos 77
For me, a trip to Europe is never complete without a stop at a French bookstore. There’s at least one in every European capital I’ve visited, and several in Athens, but Le Livre Ouvert is my favourite, because of their large selection of well-priced secondhand books from my favourite publisher, Editions Gallimard.
Bonum Terrae A. E. – Anastasiou Zinni 38
When in Athens, you must buy peanut butter. I realise how that sounds, but it’s true – and you have to get it from Bonum Terrae A. E.. This is a small shop en route to Acropolis Hill that specialises in local products of all kinds. The crunchy peanut butter is an absolute necessity, but you’ll probably want to pick up some olive oil and locally made soaps while you’re there, too.
See
When it comes to sites, Athens spoils visitors for choice. There are so many, many historically significant (not to mention magnificent) things to see in the city. We very often buy a combined ticket from Hellenic Heritage, which covers the cost of entry to seven major sites – the Acropolis, Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos, the Lykeion, Olympieion and the Roman Agora – for one price over five days, so we can do it all. There’s no need to buy this ticket in advance – you can pick it up at the first of the seven attractions you visit when you’re in the city. The savings it offers is substantial, and although every single one of the sites isn’t as striking as the Acropolis, they’re all worth a visit.
I’ve written about a number of the attractions that the combined ticket offers entry to in my last two travel guides, but I’m adding another one to the must-visit list this year, along with a couple of independent museums we loved.
Roman Forum – Polignotou 3
We’d never been to the Roman Forum until this trip to Athens and, looking back, I’m not sure how we missed it. It’s in the centre of everything, but somehow tucked away in a peaceful spot that is slightly off the beaten path, thus easy to miss if you aren’t looking for it. An early morning visit almost guarantees you can have the place to yourself, and there is lots to explore among the ruins, as well as some wonderful city views from the spot that was the centre of Roman life in the Greek capital.
The National Historical Museum – Stadiou 13
What a wonderful, unexpected surprise this museum turned out to be. We’d walked by dozens of times, but decided to visit on our last day in the city. We’re still so glad we did. When we went inside, we learned that the museum is on the site of old parliament. And that the parliament is still set-up in the building, all the wooden chairs lined up like they were when politicians convened there, in the years before the Parliament of the Hellenes was built at Syntagma Square. As museums go, it’s a bit sentimental. Permanent exhibitions are primarily dedicated to the Greek struggle for independence from the Ottoman Empire. And to say they romanticise the struggle is putting it mildly. If you want to understand Greek national pride from the Greek perspective, this is the place to go. History lovers and philhellenes will not be disappointed.
The Benaki Museum – Koumpari 1
If your taste leans more towards art than history, you’ll want to visit The Benaki Museum. Dedicated to Greek culture and history, it’s easily the loveliest in the city. The permanent collection, made up of ancient art, Byzantine art and historic heirlooms, is housed in the old Benakis family mansion in downtown Athens. And the mansion alone is worth a visit. But the art and artifacts are equally stunning. (Note: There are several satellite locations of the Benaki Museum around the city, which house collections of artifacts from other cultures.) If you have time, stop for a drink at the rooftop cafe to wind up your visit. It’s the perfect spot to relax and contemplate everything you’ve just seen.
