Destination
Rome, Italy
Sleep
Any apartment rented by Roman Holidays And…
Eat
Il Sorpasso | Ciampini Bistrot | Antico Fornaio Roscioli | Gelateria del Teatro | Cantiani Bar Pasticceria
Shop
Libreria Stendhal | Lesley Luxury Vintage | Ciao Vintage
See
Museo Hendrik Christian Andersen | Campo de Fiori | Piazza Borghese | Museo Carlo Bilotti
This is technically my third Rome travel guide, but since the first two are a decade old and nearly a decade old, respectively, this is a fresh start. Ten years passed between my first two visits to the Eternal City and my third. I’m older and more thoughtful about how I travel now; I’m also a much more experienced traveler with an entirely different budget who can afford the luxury of taking some well thought out chances while on holiday. Rome isn’t the same, either. The city I remember from 2013 is not the same one I visited a few months ago. The pace of change is so rapid now that the landscapes of major cities changes in ten years the way they once did in a hundred.
But, as I’ve so often repeated, the more things change, the more they stay the same… and in many ways, I found Rome as it was in my memories; imbued with a slightly decaying elegance that makes modernity seem positively distasteful by comparison. The city proves that with age comes both wisdom and beauty. Rome is a stunner. She’s also enormous, unapologetically complex and demands a long stay if you want to even begin to understand her. That’s part of what I love so much about her, even though I have to reluctantly acknowledge that I’ll never have enough time to understand her properly while Paris and Athens and the rest of the world continue to compete for my limited time.
No matter how much, or how little, time you have, Rome is worthy of a visit – or several over the course of a lifetime, if you can manage it. Visitors are spoiled for choice when it comes to deciding what to see and do. I can’t pretend to know the best that the city offers, but I do know what I loved and would happily do again…
Sleep
Roman Holidays And…
We rented our apartment in Rome through Airbnb, but learned afterward that it was owned by the couple who run Roman Holidays And…, a small local company specializing in boutique vacation rentals. They were the loveliest, most patient hosts arranged our airport transfer, waited hours for us to arrive when our flight out of Toronto was late, offered wonderful recommendations for the city and curate a stunning selection of apartments. We stayed in this one, but based on our experience, I think you can safely trust that all of the properties they offer would be equally well appointed and well located for a Roman adventure.
Eat
In some ways, it seems silly to recommend specific restaurants in Rome. The food in the city is wonderful, plentiful and available almost everywhere you turn. But some restaurants truly stand out. The five I’ve highlighted here were among the standouts for us on this trip.
Il Sorpasso – Via Properzio, 31/33
This restaurant, just around the corner from our apartment, came highly recommended by our hosts. We only wish we’d tried it sooner, because if we had, we’d have eaten there every single day. I can’t say enough good things about the freshly made pasta, the unique twists on classic sauces, the impeccably curated wine list… truly, everything was perfect (and the prices were incredibly affordable considering the quality of the ingredients and cooking, too.)
Ciampini Bistrot – Via della Fontanella Borghese, 59
Okay, okay, I know – Ciampini is a bit of a Roman cliche, but when in Rome, right? In all seriousness, all cliches are best on truth to some degree, and Ciampini proves it. The restaurant is wildly popular because it’s consistently very good. There are numerous locations around the city, but we liked this little one, where the seats on the sidewalk offer a lovely view of the Spanish steps without the crowds of tourists that you find closer to them.
Antico Fornaio Roscioli – Via dei Chiavari, 34
Pizza is ubiquitous in Rome, but I can say without hesitation or ambiguity that the best pizza is Antico Fornaio Roscioli. Just look for the crowd on the sidewalk outside, blocking traffic while they wait to get inside to order, and then again while they dig into their pizza the second they get outside again. Crowds of people line up for good reason – everything on the menu is to die for. We ate our pizza so quickly that I barely remember what we ate; all that really sticks with me was how good it was. But I do remember the suppli. Suppli are a Roman speciality, a little bit like a croquette and a little bit like arancini, but also totally their own thing. And at Antico Fornaio Roscioli, they are absolutely divine.
Gelateria del Teatro – Via dei Coronari, 55/56
We first discovered this little gelateria in the summer of 2013, when Rome was deserted. We had it more or less to ourselves, so we returned often to sample different flavours – and loved them all. Tastes change over time, so we didn’t know if we’d still love the gelato as much this year, but were pleasantly surprised to find it even better than we remembered! In cooler months, it’s definitely not deserted. Expect to wait in line for gelato here. And trust me when I say it’s worth the wait. (The granitas are, too. Passionfruit is my favourite; Ian prefers lemon.)
Cantiani Bar Pasticceria – Via Cola dei Rienzo, 234
A trip to Europe wouldn’t really be complete without pastry. Italian pastry is distinct from the French variety we love so much; sweeter, stickier and generally heavier. But it’s wonderful in it’s own way. I live for a good sfogliatelle, a crunchy layered pastry filled with cream. And when we visited Rome this year, I discovered (and immediately fell in love with) marizotti, sweet rolls filled with cream. My favourite, which were light and delicately sweetened, came from Cantiani Bar Pasticceria. We tried others, and most were good – but these were the best we found. I still think back happily on starting my morning with a plate of them and a cappuccino on the side.
Shop
Rome is a shopping capital in its own right. But in an increasingly globalised world, it offers most of the same stores you can find anywhere else (and order from online.) That’s not to say it’s without a selection of unique, independent boutiques. I found a few that I really loved, and would happily return to anytime…
Libreria Stendhal – Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi, 23
The appeal of this shop is definitely a bit niche. But – my francophile friends, if you’re looking for reading material while on a holiday in Rome, this is your destination. Almost every European city has a French bookstore. Rome is no exception. Libreria Stendhal is small, but offers a varied selection of French language reading material. I picked up one of my favourite books of the year, Numero deux by David Foenkinos, there. And another book for the flight home, too.
Lesley Luxury Vintage – Via Vittoria, 27
What a fun discovery Lesley Luxury Vintage proved to be! A simple Google search led me to this treasure trove of secondhand luxury goods. Dior handbags, Burberry trench coats, Hermes scarves and Chanel shoes… everything you could possibly want made an appearance on the racks at this store, which has two locations in the city. (I preferred the location on Via Vittoria, but both offer a breathtaking selection.) It took all of my willpower not to leave with my arms full of bags… but I did find a pair of vintage Chanel slingback pumps that I simply couldn’t resist, at an incredibly fair price considering their age and condition. I truly can’t recommend this store enough, you never know what treasure it might hold for you!
Ciao Vintage – Via del Governo Vecchio, 71
If you like vintage shopping for the thrill of the hunt more than anything, Ciao Vintage is the place to visit. Owned by a lovely and eccentric couple, the crowded shop is full of curiosities in various states of repair, from designer brands and high street brands and seamstresses who made garments by hand. Part homage to years and styles gone by, part shop, just stopping by to see what’s new is always a wonderful (albeit sometimes slightly dusty and dizzying) adventure.
See
Just walking down the street in Rome, if you choose the right street, is like visiting a museum. History abounds. There is more to visit in the city than you can ever visit in one trip, no matter how ambitious you may be. Accept that you can’t see it all, and choose to visit attractions that really appeal to you.
Museo Hendrik Christian Andersen – Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini, 20
I could wax poetic about this museum, but frankly, it would be repetitive, since I did it just a few months ago. You can read more about why I think it’s a must-see in Rome here.
Campo de’ Fiori
This is likely the only time I’ll ever recommend an outdoor market as a tourist attraction. Food stalls hold little appeal for me, and the hawkers that run them often make me feel awkward. But the Campo de’ Fiori offers something that a traditional outdoor market doesn’t, that makes it absolutely worth the visit for me: fresh flowers. I bought two beautiful bouquets of ranunculus here at the start of our trip. They bloomed until the day we left, expanding and changing everyday. Fresh flowers are a joyful luxury. At the Campo de’ Fiori, they’re affordable and beautiful. If you love them, this is a place you won’t want to miss in Rome.
Piazza Borghese
There are so many piazzas in the Italian capital, it would be hard to choose a favourite – for anyone but me. I fell in love with Piazza Borghese the first time we drove by, when I saw it dotted with stalls selling books, vintage maps and art. It’s a magical little square for bibliophiles, and well worth a visit.
Museo Carlo Bilotti – Fiorello La Guardia, 6
If you happen to find yourself on the grounds of the Villa Borghese, don’t hesitate to look in at this museum. Located in the villa’s orangerie, a beautiful old building that still retains some of its history, it houses the private art collection of Carlo Bilotti. That collection is small but varied; it includes pieces by Andy Warhol, Giorgio di Chirico and Larry Powers, among others. There’s an intimacy in exploring art acquired by a private collector. It offers a window into the life and tastes of a person that almost nothing else can. But not everyone likes the same artists, so not every personal collection is enjoyable for all viewers. What’s nice about this museum is that entry is free of charge. That means that if the collection isn’t for you, there’s nothing lost except a little bit of time.
