Marseille Travel Guide

Destination
Marseille, France
Sleep
Hotel Maison Saint-Louis Vieux Port | Hotel Dieu Intercontinental
Eat
Deia Coffee & Kitchen |  Gigi, Bouillon Italien |  Bistrot le Petit Saint-Louis
Shop
Maison Empereur | Le Coq Gourmand
See
Mucem |  La Vieille Charite | Fort Saint-Jean | Cathedrale La Major | Musee Cantini

Marseille was, at once, exactly as I imagined and nothing like I thought it would be. Although it’s in the south, Marseille is not Provence, a region known for its beauty and charm. It is a big, bustling city, home to a university and a diverse population. It’s also a place full of history, the stuff of literary legend. It is too much to be described in a single paragraph and, in most ways, needs to be experienced to be believed.

Although in many ways, I feel as though we barely scratched the surface in Marseille, I don’t know when, or even if, we’ll be back. I’m so glad we went, though, and I think everyone should, if the opportunity comes along.

Sleep
Hotel Maison Saint-Louis Vieux Port
We stayed at this relatively new three-star hotel in the Noailles neighbourhood. I chose it primarily for the beautiful restoration-era balconies, which offer a view of the city and waterfront that seemed too good to miss. The budget-friendly price point contributed to the decision, too, I admit. Marseille isn’t a destination with a large selection of luxury hotels, or even many four-star properties. The Hotel Maison Saint-Louis Vieux Port is not fancy, but the beds are comfortable and offers all the amenities you need for a short stay. If you’re on a budget, its location and price point make it an ideal choice. The balconies really do make the hotel special, and if you have a bit of room to splurge, I highly recommend choosing a room that offers one.
Hotel Dieu Intercontinental
It’s rare that I recommend a hotel we haven’t actually stayed at in one of these guides. But the Hotel Dieu Intercontinental was where we wanted to stay on our visit to Marseille. Unfortunately, it was completely sold out the week of our visit. We walked past it during our visit and seeing it in person only further convinced us that if we’re ever back, we will be booking a room there. The historic charm is unbeatable – the Hotel Dieu was once a hospital – and its views over the waterfront are breathtaking. While not especially budget-friendly, I’m convinced that a stay at this property would be worth every penny.

Eat
Deia Coffee & Kitchen – 5, rue Saint-Saens
We were both starving and exhausted when we sat down for lunch at this charming cafe, but those two facts take nothing away from how much we enjoyed our meal. I could wax poetic about my rice pudding – perhaps a strange lunch choice, but one I couldn’t resist – topped with poached pears and crumbled biscuits. It was absolutely decadent, the best I’ve ever had, and it alone makes a trip to Deia worth it.
Gigi, Bouillon Italien – 13, cour Julien
We probably should have known we’d need to make a dinner reservation in Marseille, since we were there on a day when major hotels were booked solid. But the thought only occurred to us an hour before dinner, so we went wandering and stumbled upon Gigi, which turned out to be a good thing. The restaurant was packed, and with good reason. Italian food in France may seem like a strange choice, but everything we ate was not only delicious, it was memorable. Highly recommend.
Bistrot le Petit Saint-Louis – 2, rue des Recolettes
I couldn’t write this post without giving a mention to the little cafe in our hotel. In two days, we stopped for coffee, wine and breakfast here. Like the hotel, it was nothing fancy, but the decor is charming, the prices utterly reasonable and the service prompt. The terrasse out front is a lovely spot to watch the sunset, too.

Shop
Maison Empereur – 4, rue des Recolettes
If there is a quintessential shop in Marseille that everyone should visit, this is it. Not my usual type of store, Maison Empereur, which is right next door to, and was once part of the same building as the Hotel Maison Saint-Louis Vieux Port – it was home to the ballroom – sells Marseille- and French-made products of all kinds. Most are practical – think high quality cookware. Even if that’s not your thing, the store itself is a destination, and worth a visit.
Le Coq Gourmand – 39, rue Fort Notre-Dame
Can you visit a French city or town without buying wine? I can’t, personally. And I’m generally not fussy about where I get it. But the minute I stepped into Le Coq Gourmand, I didn’t want to go anywhere else. The small boutique, which is also home to a small restaurant, offers a unique and beautifully curated wine selection. It’s worth noting that although we didn’t eat there, the food they serve smelled wonderful, too.

See
MUCEM – 1 Esp., J4
Loosely translated, MUCEM stands for the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisation. An absolutely striking modern building on the waterfront, the museum, which opened in 2013, is now a Marseille destination. Even if you don’t go inside – and we didn’t have time to – you must take a walk down to the port to see the building in person. It’s a true architectural marvel.
La Vieille Charite – 2, rue de la Charite
A total contrast to MUCEM, La Vieille Charite is a piece of Marseille history. An architectural marvel in its own way, the old hospital now houses a museum, a cafe and much more. What’s truly striking about it, though, is the sense of absolute calm when you walk through the gates. Marseille is a busy, bustling city. But within the walls of the Vieille Charite, all is calm and quiet, which allows visitors space to take a breath and reflect on what they’ve seen during the visit so far.
Fort Saint-Jean – promenade Louis Brauquier
Another waterfront destination, the old Fort Saint-Jean is hard to miss because of it’s sheer size. But from my perspective, it’s best viewed from close up. I love large buildings partly because of the sense of perspective they offer, but also because of the testament they make to both human ingenuity and persistence. I would challenge anyone to stand in front of the old fort and not marvel at just how tall it is while considering that it was built entirely without modern construction equipment. It won’t be easy.