I’m not sure precisely what drew us to the Musee Picasso in 2009, aside perhaps from the fact that the name Picasso is synonymous with modern art. Picasso’s renown is such that even school children recognise him by name. Familiarity may breed contempt but it is also a source of comfort. We often gravitate to what we recognise, even if we have no special affinity for it. And we recognised Picasso.
That visit to the Musee Picasso marked our first ever visit to Le Marais. It was, therefore, in many ways, a pivotal moment in our lives in Paris. I remember more of the neighbourhood than the art we saw that day. And the art that did stand out wasn’t Picasso, but Daniel Buren’s glasswork. It doesn’t really matter. I have fond memories of that day, so I’ve always wanted to return to the Musee Picasso. But it underwent a major renovation shortly afterward, which resulted in a multi-year closure. That renovation overlapped with our year of living in Paris. And after that, I admit, museum fell a bit off my radar, eclipsed by numerous other Parisian galleries on my must-visit list.
It was Rodin, not Picasso, that brought us back to the Musee Picasso this year. The promise of combined exhibition of the two artists’ work was too good to miss. And although Rodin will be first in my heart no matter what, I will say that juxtaposing his work with Picasso’s did give me a new lens through which to see it. The creations of these two old masters, which are so different, have a sort of yin and yang quality when combined. Displaying them together bring a new, if temporary, harmony to the museum and its permanent collections.
While this exhibit is only runs until March 6, 2022, the Musee Picasso remains worth visiting anytime you’re in Paris – whether you love Picasso or just know his name. The building itself, an hotel particulier that dates back to eighteenth century, was known as one of the grandest of its time. It is as stunning as the collection it houses, which means the museum is a treat for lovers of both art and architecture. If you can, visit on a sunny day. The opportunity to see the sunshine through the museum’s enormous glass windows alone justifies the entry price.
Musee Picasso Paris
5, rue de Thorigny, 75003 Paris, France
01 85 56 00 36