Anafiotika at Sunrise

Mango hat
Uniqlo blouse
H&M trousers
J. Crew sandals
Mango handbag
Vintage belt (similar)
Celine sunglasses
& Other Stories necklace
Location: Anafiotika – Athens, Greece

When I look back at photos of our morning in Anafiotika, the memories move me nearly to tears. Anafiotika means, “Little Anafi.” Anafi is a village in the Cycladic Islands. When residents of the Cyclades moved to Athens for work, they built a small village in the style of their home. That village is nestled, somewhat improbably, on the side of Acropolis Hill. The terrain is rocky, and was as yet unsettled in the 1840s when Cycladic construction workers erected the first homes.

Anafiotika now amounts to about four whitewashed streets on the hillside. Given their location on a major archeological site, many of the houses were torn down in the fifties for research. I know I read that story somewhere before our trip, but no longer remember who I should credit for the history lesson – or the discovery. By all reports, many native Athenians wouldn’t know exactly how to locate the little Cycladic town within the city. And after walking up there in the early dawn myself, I believe it. Anafiotika is, at once, a self-contained village (complete with a group of friendly but feral cats in shades of white and orange, locals in their own right) and a tourist attractions. When we visited again at mid-day, we ran into group after group of tourists looking for the little place with the white houses.

This is part of the magic of Athens – there is always something new to discover, and the city attracts people with adventurous hearts.

In the morning, we had the place to ourselves. The locals were just waking up, and a few came outside to feed the cats, but otherwise we saw no one. One adorably pesky cat followed us as we wound our way through the narrow stone streets – I suspect he was hoping we came with food. He was our only companion as the sun rose. Anafiotika itself is beautiful, but it was really the views that left me speechless. The Acropolis is just up the hill, and down below, there is the concrete jungle of modern Athens. When you stand in the little pseudo-Cycladic town, you find yourself caught between two eras, almost between two worlds. The effect is disconcerting, almost dizzying, but totally exhilarating, too.

Anafiotika is a place built by love. Love of history, love of culture and love, mostly, of home. The sentiments that brought its square houses and stone steps in being are ones that we can all appreciate on a human level. Part of me never wanted to leave, but most of me knew it was only fair to leave the place to the people it belongs to. So I’m content with my photos, but I hope I’ll be back someday soon.

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