Paris Travel Guide | Part IV

Destination
Paris, France
Sleep
The Hotel Monte Cristo
Eat
Miznon | Rodchenko | Cafe du Trocadero | Bistrot des Victoires
Shop
Depot Vente du Luxe | Cire Trudon
See
Atelier Brancusi | Musee Bourdelle

When I consider just how many times we’ve been to Paris since I launched Coco & Vera in 2009, it seems somewhat unfathomable that this is only my fourth guide to the city. But at the same time, I can’t believe I’m writing a fourth guide to the same place and still finding new things to say. That is the reality of Paris – it doesn’t matter how many times you visit, there is always something wonderful to discover.

Stay
I love a beautiful hotel, but I hate not having a kitchen. As a result, we mostly book Airbnb apartments for our visits to Paris. It’s difficult to recommend a specific Airbnb, though, and I doubt we’d return to the one we stayed in this year, for a variety of reasons. So instead, I’m sharing a hotel that’s been on my radar for a while now, where I would love to someday stay…

Hotel Monte Cristo – 20-22, rue Pascal
Inspired by one of my absolute favourite books, The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas, this hotel looks like a bibliophile’s dream to me. Every room is inspired by a character or moment in the book, which informs the immaculate decor. I admit to a particular love with the blush and brown detail in the Mercedes room, but would happily stay in any of them.

Eat
The problem with eating in Paris is that there is just too much good food. We very often fall into the trap of returning to the same places over and over, because we love them – which means we don’t have the chance to discover new places to love. This year, we managed to get out of our cuisine comfort zone a few times, with delicious results.

Miznon – 22, rue des Ecouffes
Our friends, Anastasia and Federico, took us to Miznon for an early dinner. The restaurant is on a street not far from where we lived in 2012-2013; a street we’ve walked a thousand times. But we’d never even noticed the place, never mind gone inside. And we were missing out! Go for the whole roasted broccoli, and stay for everything else. A great spot for vegetarians, but offers options for everyone.
Rodchenko – 17, rue des Ecouffes
Just across the street from Miznon is the substantially fancier and more refined Rodchenko. The blue velvet banquettes caught my eye immediately, but beautiful decor only goes so far. Luckily, the food at Rodchenko also proved to be utterly sublime. The menu is short, but varied and interesting.
Cafe du Trocadero – 8, place du Trocadero
A true must-visit if you want to enjoy a view of the Eiffel Tower peacefully, coffee in hand. We love to sit outside here, order coffee and croissants, and just watch the world go by. There is no doubt that you pay for the view, but personally, I think it’s worth it – and worth all of the instagram photos of their beautiful black and white table tops, too.
Bistrot des Victoires – 6, rue de la Vrilliere
For years, I avoided traditional bistros in Paris – there are just so many of them, and the quality of the food varies so wildly that it can be next to impossible to know if you’re choosing a good one. We originally stopped at Bistrot des Victories because it was both quiet and picturesque – you saw its lovely exterior here – but we were so charmed by the service and ambience that we went back for dinner. And everything tasted just as good as it looked.

Shop
This is the section you’ve all been waiting for – the big reveal of where I found my secondhand Chanel bag for an absolute steal. Don’t worry, it won’t disappoint.

Depot-Vente DELUXE – 2 bis, rue du Roi de Sicile
There is a depot-vente, or luxury consignment store, in every neighbourhood in Paris. But they are not all the same. Many, in fact, are stuffy and overpriced. I have more than once felt like a depot-vente owner deemed me to be worth less than their merchandise, which does not lead to a pleasant shopping experience. But Depot-Vente DELUXE is entirely different. The atmosphere is peaceful but warm, the selection of secondhand goods beautifully curated. And, yes, they sell a lot of Chanel handbags at very reasonable prices.
Cire Trudon – 78, rue de Seine
If you’re looking for a less expensive smaller souvenir of your time in Paris that is just as iconic as a Chanel handbag, Cire Trudon is the place to go. They are the pre-eminent Parisian candle manufacturer, and their wax wares have lit the churches of Paris since the seventeenth century. These days, they are more about fashion than function. And I can’t say I really mind. While the beautiful packaging is a big part of the appeal of their candles, the unique scents are what really keep me going back.

See
There is so much to see in a city that, as much as I love museums, I feel like I am not experiencing enough if I spend a whole trip inside of them. In recent years, we’ve come up with a one-major-tourist-attraction-per-trip rule. Wherever we go, we pick one place to visit that has an entry fee. Just one. After that, we focus on free attractions or things that can be viewed while we enjoy the outdoors. As a result, we didn’t see too much that was new to us this year in Paris. But I have two places to share that frankly, I can’t believe I’ve never written about before…

Atelier Brancusi – Place Georges Pompidou
The whole of Centre Pompidou, which houses a collection of modern and contemporary art, is worth a visit. But I admit to having a soft spot for the recreation of sculptor Brancusi’s studio, located in a small building in front of the museum itself. Entry is free, and if you love sculpture work, its a must-see.
Musee Bourdelle – 18, rue Antoine Bourdelle
We visited the Musee Bourdelle for the first time in 2017, for a temporary exhibit about Balenciaga. And I fell so in love that I went back again. It took me a while to realise just how much Bourdelle’s work, and the museum that is its home, inspired me. But, looking back, the Musee Bourdelle, in all of its black and beige glory, profoundly influenced my personal style and aesthetic. The museum isn’t centrally located, but it’s worth the trip – especially since admission is free!