Halifax Travel Guide

Destination
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Sleep
The Lord Nelson Hotel & Suites
Eat
The Canteen | Shaw’s Landing | The Dairy Bar | Edna | Bar Kismet
Shop
Independent Mercantile | Wildflower Clothing Inc. | Brilliant Clothing Boutique | Duly Noted
See
Peggy’s Cove |  Seaport Farmer’s Market |  Halifax Public Gardens

We jetted off to Halifax this summer in a hurry, but not on a whim – mom and I both have close friends in the maritime capital. With a little help from Expedia, we were able to pay them a visit. It wasn’t my first trip to the Atlantic coast, but Halifax was a new destination for me. And, as always, I embraced the opportunity for discovery…

Sleep
The Lord Nelson Hotel & Suites
My love of luxury hotels runs deep. It’s both silly and snobby, but I can’t help it – I just feel like I have a better travel experience when I stay in a place that is elegantly decorated and well-maintained. If it’s a historic property, like The Lord Nelson Hotel & Suites, even better; I just love the old world attention to detail. We scored an absolute steal on our room rate with Expedia, and I would happily have paid more – the rooms were spacious, the beds were comfortable and the heritage decor was breathtaking.

Eat
Admittedly, since I wasn’t traveling with my chef husband, we focussed a bit less on food on this trip than I normally would. But my girlfriend, who has known me since tenth grade and understands my particular affinity for restaurants at the intersection of good food and fabulous design. We visited some truly fabulous spots that I admittedly wish I could have brought back home with me.

The Canteen – 22 Portland Street, Dartmouth
Where do I begin? From the pineapple wallpaper in the bathrooms to the cumin-infused beet hummus I am still dreaming out, this restaurant is a delicious and photogenic hit.
Shaw’s Landing – 6958 Peggy’s Cove Road, West Dover
This restaurant is a bit far afield, I admit. But it’s worth the trip – whether you’re already at Peggy’s Cove or not. The seaside location couldn’t have been prettier, especially on a sunny day. And the fish cakes – where do I even begin? I have never had better, and I doubt I ever will.
The Dairy Bar – 5688 Spring Garden Road
Earl grey soft serve ice cream top with crunchy caramelised cornflakes… need I say more? This tiny ice cream stand in downtown Halifax was a major highlight for me, particularly since it was adjacent to our hotel, making it possible for me to visit again (and again, and again.)
Edna – 2053 Gottingen Street
Whether or not brunch is, in fact, a made-up meal, it is still my favourite meal. We indulged in a few really good brunches during our trip, but the best was at Edna. From the eggs benedict to the ricotta pancakes and grapefruit mimosas, there wasn’t a thing I tried that I didn’t love. Expect to wait for a table – but expect not to be sorry you did.
Bar Kismet – 2733 Agricola Street
Casual, unobtrusive bars with good wine lists are one of the many things I miss about Europe. Luckily, they are starting to pop up in Canada and Bar Kismet in Halifax is one of them. With a list of wines you won’t find anywhere else, this is the spot for wine drinkers in the city. And the desserts are delicious, too – I am still trying to convince Ian to recreate their ginger rhubarb cheesecake.

Shop
As usual, I did very little shopping on our trip. But Halifax is a sleepier place than most of the cities I visit, which meant I had free time to do a fair amount of exploring of available shopping… even if all I brought home was a box of tea.

Independent Mercantile – 2091 Gottingen Street
If you’re looking for millennial heaven, look no further. All of the adorable succulents, Rifle Paper Co. notepads and Moscow Mule cups you could ever want, among other treasures, can be found in this shop.
Wildflower Clothing Inc. – 5431 Doyle Street, Number 103
Nestled in the cutest row of shops, Wildflower Clothing Inc. is a petite but perfectly curated boutique that stocks brands like Smash + Tess, Splendid, Sloane Tea and more. I didn’t stay long, but the beautiful displays and peaceful atmosphere made me want to return.
Brilliant Clothing Boutique – 1539 Birmingham Street
I hesitated for days over a gorgeous cream silk Chanel blouse at this fabulously curated secondhand store. Yes, you read that correctly – secondhand Chanel in Halifax. That lone makes Brilliant Clothing Boutique worth the trip.
Duly Noted – 5431 Doyle Street, Number 104
I can never resist a good notebook, even when I have a stack of blank ones at home waiting to be filled. A whole store devoted to paper products is pretty much irresistible for me, and that’s exactly what Duly Noted offers: all the pens and paper your heart could desire.

See
After our over-ambitious sightseeing agenda in Washington DC, I wanted to take things more slowly in Halifax. In the end, I felt like I saw enough of the sights without exhausting myself totally – which was the goal.

Peggy’s Cove
The Nova Scotia coast is home to more beautiful coves than you can count – but this one is the most famous, and I won’t lie, the views from the rocks, which look out both on the ocean and the tiny town of Peggy’s Cove, are spectacular. If you visit only one tourist destination in the Halifax area, this should be it.
Seaport Farmers’ Market – 1209 Marginal Road
Perhaps I haven’t done my research, but I admit: until I arrived in Halifax, I had no idea that Nova Scotians grew wine. In fact, the province produces quite a lot of it. And while there are always so many delicious reasons – local produce, fresh pastries, artisanal cheese – to visit a farmers’ market, the fact that many wine producers set up at this one, and offer samples (!), makes it an especially fun spot to spend a Saturday morning. Tip: Always try the Tidal Bay.
Halifax Public Gardens
I never miss an opportunity to stop and smell whatever flowers are in bloom. We were lucky to stay just across the street from the Halifax Public Garden and, while it seemed to rain every time I visited, so I don’t have many photos, it is a truly lovely spot for a quiet wander.