Venice Travel Guide

Destination
Venice, Italy
Sleep
Hotel Una Cannareggio
Eat
Venissa  |  Bar Puppa  |  Naranzaria
Shop
Gucci  |  Borsalino
See
St. Mark’s Square |  Scala Contarini del Bovolo  |  Rialto Bridge  |  Santa Maria del Salute Cathedral

I had dreams of what Venice could be – and reality was a lot different. In the months since our visit, I have tried to reconcile my expectations with the reality of our experience, to little avail. If I had the trip to do over, I would not stay in Venice itself, but on a nearby island, like the utterly lovely Mazzorbo. Venice, for me, was overwhelming. Being unable to escape the crowds, even at night, made it feel a bit like being at the Hotel California – a place you can check out of, but never leave. And yet, despite that, there were some wonderful bright spots during our stay…

Sleep
Hotel UNA Cannareggio
When in Italy, we always book a UNA hotel if we can – the Italian chain offers wonderful service with special attention to small details. Although I would still have preferred to stay a bit further from the action, the UNA was a bit off the beaten path in a quieter neighbourhood.

Eat
Food is one of our favourite things to experience on vacation and was a particular source of frustration in Venice. Ian is dangerously allergic to shellfish. It was rare to find a restaurant that seemed to take that seriously. Worse still, shellfish dishes appear on every menu everywhere. Despite that, we had some truly memorable meals.

Venissa – Fondamenta di Santa Caterina, 3
This restaurant is actually located on Mazzorbo but is absolutely worth the trip. Part restaurant, part vineyard, part hotel, it offers something for everything in the most lovely and tranquil setting. We ate in the osteria, the more rustic part of the restaurant. The food, which focused on local ingredients and dishes, was transcendent. The wine pairings, also local, were masterful. This is not a particularly budget-friendly place, I admit. But the prices are more than fair for the quality. If you want to treat yourself in Venice, this is the place.
Bar Puppa – Calle dello Spezier, 4800
The complete antithesis of Venissa, Bar Puppa is a tiny spot in Cannareggio. It is frequented primarily by locals but recommended by everyone from The Guardian to Lonely Planet. The decor is dated and not at all instagram-friendly. It doesn’t matter. The food is delicious and well-priced.
Naranzaria – San Polo, 130
If you want a picturesque spot to drink an Aperol spritz, the vibrant orange cocktail that originated in Venice, this is it. You can get an Aperol spritz anywhere. But Narazaria has an incredible view of the canal and a lovely patio, where you can while away the afternoon in the sun.

Shop
Venice abounds with tacky, tawdry souvenirs – an abundance of eerie plague masks among them. I didn’t bring anything home, but if I had, I would have chosen something more sophisticated.

Gucci – Multiple locations
When in Italy, a visit to Gucci is a must. I narrowly avoided leaving with a handbag, because I was saving myself for a treat from Chanel, but it wasn’t easy. Gucci stores are immaculate and full of temptations, but when in Rome, as they say…
Borsalino – 4822 San Marco
If you love a good hat – and I do – then you will love Borsalino. After admiring Borsalino hats on my favourite European bloggers for years, it was a treat to visit the brand’s elegant boutique in person.

See
Despite everything, Venice is undeniably beautiful. If you are lucky enough to walk through the city early in the morning, the experience is not unlike wandering a watercolour painting. There is no shortage of wonderful things to see and do during your visit.

Saint Mark’s Square
If you visit nowhere else in Venice, you must visit Saint Mark’s Square. It embodies the quintessence of Venetian opulence and is particularly beautiful early in the morning.
Scala Contarini del Bovolo – San Marco, 4303
This beautiful old staircase was a highlight of our trip. It is just that – a staircase. But it is also a quiet haven in a chaotic place. And the city views from the top are utterly breathtaking from every angle.
Rialto Bridge – Sestiere San Polo
No trip to Venice is complete without a walk across Rialto Bridge. The views of the canal from the top were another favourite. We visited very early in the morning to avoid crowds and I can attest that it was absolutely worth the early wake-up call to have the bridge to ourselves, however briefly.
Santa Maria del Salute Cathedral – Fondamenta Salute
There is no shortage of cathedrals in Venice. With that said, this one was my favourite. If you love white buildings, you’ll probably love it as much as I did.