Athens Travel Guide

Destination
Athens, Greece
Sleep
Apartment in the Sky via Airbnb
Eat
Aster  |  O Kostas  |  Takis Bakery
Shop
Daphnis and Chloe
See
Acropolis of Athens  |  Temple of Olympian Zeus  |  Syntagma Square  |  The Athenian Trilogy

We both fell hard for Athens. It was the first destination on our Europe trip after Paris, but also the last stay we actually booked, so we didn’t do a lot of planning ahead of time. That proved to be the best decision we could have made. Our trip to Athens was wide open and we were able to plan as we went, seeing whatever sights captured our imaginations on a given day. I’ve said before that I wish someone had told me, really told me, about Athens. The Greek capital is, without a doubt, one of the most underrated cities in Europe. I would go back in a heartbeat. There is so much to love that I had a hard time selecting my favourite places, but I’ve rounded up the best of the best from our experience.

Sleep
Apartment in the Sky via Airbnb
We love Airbnb. We’ve had nothing but amazing experiences with Airbnb properties, but I would normally still hesitate to recommend a specific rental listed on a site. But the Apartment in the Sky was so affordable, so well-decorated and so spacious that it deserves a special mention. Our host, Theodore, was an absolute delight – I would highly recommend both of the properties he rents for stays in Athens.

Eat
Food is so economical in Athens, particularly by European standards. We were able to buy delicious, healthful ingredients at the nearby grocery store – Greek yoghurt, fresh honey, nuts, vegetables and cheeses – for just a few euros. So we cooked a lot. But there are many restaurants to love in the city, too.

Aster – Troon 48
A little off the beaten path in the Petralona district, this Cretan cafe is absolutely worth the trip. I’m still dreaming of the phyllo-wrapped feta drizzled with honey that we ate while we were there. The decor, made-up of mismatched vintage pieces from the 50s to 70s, has a kind of quirky charm that I loved.
O Kostas – Pentelis 5
Eating gyro, a pita filled with rotisserie cooked meat, vegetables and tzatziki, is practically mandatory on a visit to Athens. We found our favourite gyro at O Kostas, a standing-room-only place tucked away behind Syntagma Square.
Takis Bakery – Misaraliotou 14
When in the Greek capital, you will quickly spot Koulouri, bread rings covered with sesame seeds that look like oversized bagels. You can buy them almost anywhere, but our favourites came from Takis Bakery, where all the pastries were fresh, often still warm and absolutely delicious.

Shop
I don’t shop much on holiday, especially short trips. Four days is far from enough time to to find the best shops – I can tell you where H&M is in Athens, of course, but so can anyone who has ever been there.

Daphnis and Chloe – Erechthiou 19
Primarily an online shop for high-quality Greek herbs and spices, the Daphnis and Chloe team have a small showroom in Athens which they very kindly allowed us to visit when we mistook it for an actual brick and mortar store. If you like to cook, their spice sets make a wonderful souvenir from Greece.

See
Athens is a city of contrasts. Ancient ruins sit, improbably, among modern concrete buildings on busy streets where constant streams of cars rush by. But those contrasts make it beautiful – and the ancient ruins are even more magnificent in person than they are in pictures.

Acropolis of Athens – Athens 10558
If you see only one tourist attraction in Athens, let it be this one. The ruins of the Parthenon, the Erechtheium and the Temple of Athena Nike all sit atop this hill. Early morning is the ideal time to visit because the monuments are less crowded and the heat is less intense. Don’t miss the rocky outcropping just before the entry gate – it is, perhaps, not the safest, but well worth climbing for the views.
Temple of Olympian Zeus – Athens 10557
In the middle of a field on the way to the city centre lie the remains of an enormous temple dedicated to Zeus. Construction of the temple, which began in 550 BC, was such an enormous undertaking that it wasn’t completed until Hadrian visited the city in 125 AD. Today, it sits alone, a habitat for local stray animals and bleakly poignant reminder of times long gone by.
Syntagma Square
The central square in Athens is the centre of life in the city. The surrounding buildings are breathtaking and the place itself always bustling. For me, this is the best starting point to explore the modern city. (And it’s a great spot to pick-up wifi since Starbucks and McDonald’s are both nearby!)
The Athenian Trilogy – Panepistimiou
If you love marble, you will love the Athenian Trilogy. Three marvels of Greek architecture – the National Library, the University of Athens and the Academy of Athens – line the boulevard on Panepistimiou. Each one would be a sight to behold on its own. But lined up next to each other, the visual effect they give is breathtaking. And their interiors are equally magnificent.